UBC Botanical Garden, April 21

Pink rhododendron

Pink rhododendron

We took the bus to UBC after lunch today. There is a bus stop not far away for here and a bus waiting at it, but not the bus we thought we should take. However the driver asked where we were going and said that he would transfer us to a stop where we could get the bus we wanted.  We got on, and there weren’t a lot of others on the bus.  We started talking to people, and the bus driver.

“I’ll tell you where to get off,” he said.

“Fine,” I said, “as long as you speak English.”

The man next to me asked if I was from England.  “No,” I replied, “but the last city bus we were on was in Argentina, and we don’t speak much Spanish.”

We then had an interesting conversation with the passengers near us, and the bus driver, about chickens and goats on the South American buses (which of course there weren’t in Argentina.)  The bus driver said that the trolley buses from Vancouver were sold to Buenos Aires.

We transferred to another bus which took us more quickly to the University.  We then walked across campus about 1.5 km to the botanic gardens.  I was surprised that there was an entry fee ($7 for seniors) because I’d looked on-line and could find nothing.  It wasn’t unusual to pay a fee, but it was unexpected.

Skunk cabbage (Lysichiton americanus)

Skunk cabbage (Lysichiton americanus)

The gardens are nice, and quite large.  They are much less developed than the Van Dusen gardens, but there are large numbers of rhododendrons growing under the tall old cedar and Douglas Fir trees.  We crossed under the road to a much more open part of the garden where they had many, many alpine flowers in rock gardens, as well as a section of native plants, an herb garden and a vegetable garden.

We missed the return express bus back by just a minute or so.  We asked the driver of another bus that was waiting, and he said he went fairly close to Granville Island.  He was very friendly towards us, telling us exactly where we should get off the bus, but he drove like a maniac, yelling at the other drivers, including the other bus drivers, and honking his horn when people didn’t make left turns into traffic fast enough!

After supper (which Geoffrey and Gerhard cooked for us tonight) we went to downtown Vancouver to the waterfront and to “Fly Over Canada” which is a movie where you sit in seats suspended out over the screen.  It is fun as the seats tilt and turn giving you the impression of really flying over the scenery below you.  We all enjoyed it, but thought it was much too short.  After that we went to a restaurant, and all had decadent desserts — except for Enid who had a much healthier cup of tea.

I’ve also updated my entire picture collection, so you can see the latest ones from our trip here to Vancouver by going to http://ddice.dyndns.org/photos/collections01.php and looking for the 2014 pictures of Vancouver.

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Stanley Park and the Vancouver Aquarium, April 20

Easter Sunday, and a cloudy day, but it hardly rained so we enjoyed a walk along the seawall in Stanley Park.  We ate lunch near the aquarium, and it started to sprinkle rain.  Some other tourist walked by and took a picture of us eating under our umbrellas.

We enjoyed the aquarium very much.  Many of the displays are of Pacific Coast fish and sea-life.  There are many very colourful anemones, and beautifully lit displays of jellyfish.  They form living works of art.  It is probably nicer to view the ocean bottom this way in the aquarium than it would be to snorkel or dive in the cold Pacific Northwest.

The aquarium is very controversial in Vancouver because of its captive dolphins and whales.  However, realistically, what else could you do with dolphins that have been injured and permanently disabled by fishing nets.  Would it be better to euthanize them, or allow them to live in captivity?

 

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Van Dusen Botanical Garden, April 18

We awoke to a beautiful sunny morning today.  I walked along False Creek and photographed some of the flowers, and people in the morning going canoeing and kayaking.  Later in the morning we (Enid, I and Geoffrey) went to the Van Dusen garden, which Enid and I had visited last year.  It is a very nice flower garden in the spring, especially with all the rhododendrons that are blooming at this time.  Tonight we will be going to a performance of the Mikado, so we’ve had an enjoyable day.

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Museum of Vancouver, April 17

Great blue heron, False Creek

Great blue heron, False Creek

We left Saskatchewan (and Calgary) yesterday, in ice and snow.  Our planes had to be de-iced at both airports, so it is nice to be in much warmer Vancouver, even though it is raining.  The spring flowers, and cherry blossoms are out in force.

This morning we went to the Museum of Vancouver.  It’s about a 2.5 km walk from here, along False Creek, and it was nice to be outdoors without feeling cold.  We saw an interesting exhibit on the history of Vancouver.

Crab sculpture, Museum of Vancouver

Crab sculpture, Museum of Vancouver

My only problem with the display is that they call the 1970’s history.  It can’t be that long ago can it?  It seems pretty fresh in my memory!  There were a number of school groups in the museum, and they seemed to find this part of the museum fascinating, and were trying on all the hippie clothes.

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Some final thoughts on Argentina and Chile

We’re now back in Canada after a great time, primarily in Patagonia of Argentina and Chile.  We were so thoroughly pleased with our tour company (Say Hueque).  Everything that they did was extremely well arranged.  We were met at every airport by a private driver with car, many of them English speaking.  The only minor glitches we experienced (the very late pickup for the Tango show for example) were not their fault.

Here’s our ranking of the tour spots we did, in order from best to worst.

1. Perito Moreno glacier:  I’d expected a small glacier similar to what we’d seen in New Zealand.  Instead we were presented with a massive glacier ending in the water, so that it creaks, snaps, and calves routinely.  You can get so close to it that it one of the best views of a glacier I’ve ever seen.

2. Bariloche: The town isn’t really all that spectacular, but the lakes are very pretty backdropped by the Andes mountains.  What made this place so special was the fabulous treatment we got from our guide Federico of Kawen Adventure Company, including the best gourmet box lunch we’ve ever eaten on a hike.

3. Andes boat crossing: Though it’s a long day, with an early start in Bariloche, and a late finish in Puerto Varas, it’s a beautiful way to go from Argentina to Chile.  The Andes mountains surround the lakes.  Particularly spectacular is the view of Orson Volcano from Lago Todas del Santes.

4. Ushuaia: The town isn’t much, but we enjoyed two things in particular — the tour of the penquin colony, and the hike along the Beagle channel followed by “canoeing” in a rubber raft.  The Beagle Channel cruise was also very pretty.

5. Iguazu Falls: They are a spectacular falls.  Can you compare them to Niagara?  I think Niagara is nicer because of the volume of water over the falls, but the French people we met at our cabana in Iquazu thought otherwise.  In any case, they are very, very beautiful.  The Devil’s Throat in particular is an extremely violent torrent of water plunging over into a choked off channel.  San Martin Falls isn’t as violent, but you can get a better view of it from the Argentine side.  The boat ride under the falls was pretty wicked and wet!

6. Torres del Paine: I liked this least of the places we visited in Patagonia.  The Paine Massif is spectacularly beautiful, especially the Cuernos del Paine, and the three Torres del Paine themselves.  However, I think it is often overblown.  It is a beautiful mountain, but no more beautiful than others I’ve seen.  And the price of the hotel is certainly absurd for the nature of the view.

7. Buenos Aires: What else can I say — it’s a big city.  Not my idea of fun.  Like any big city it has both extremely fancy and rich, and very, very poor slum areas.  It was ok to see it once, but I’d certainly try to avoid it if I ever went back to Argentina.

 

 

 

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Our last full day in Argentina, January 29, 2014

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Toucan in Guiraoga refuge

We are looking forward to being at home again, but not the long travel time of almost two days.   We have had a fabulous time here but it is always nice to go home.

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Owl in Guiraoga refuge

This morning we went to a nature reserve, Guira Oga, where they rescue native wildlife. They had many varieties of birds and a few kinds of mammals as well as some reptiles.

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Toucan in Guiraoga refuge

We’d planned to also go to the Botanical Garden which we’d seen advertised; however, it was closed.  Instead we went to La Aripuca.  It’s a bit of a conservation themed Park where they’ve used old trees to build several large wooden structures.  There really isn’t a lot to see here, but they have a restaurant where we had a nice meal.

After lunch we went downtown hoping to go to a hummingbird garden.  It was closed for siesta. Instead we tried to find a grocery store. We asked at the hotel downtown but they said all the stores would be closed. However we did find a small corner store where we got some bread, cheese, fruit,  and a can of tuna fish to have for supper tonight and lunch tomorrow.

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Parrots in Guiraoga refuge

It has been hot and humid all day. Just a few minutes ago it started to pour rain so we are glad we are dry in our room, not downtown in the downpour.

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Iguazu Falls, January 28, 2014

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San Martin Falls at Iguazu

Our driver arrived after breakfast, and took us to a transfer point at a nearby hotel.  Here we joined about 15 other (all English speaking) tourists, for a day long tour of Igazu falls.  For the first time on this trip we were amongst the youngest, as almost everyone seemed to be older, or at least a lot less mobile than us.  We did a lot of walking in the heat of a bright, sunny day, and most of them looked quite tired by the end.  Not only was it hot, but very humid.

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The Devil's Throat at Iguazu


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The Devil's Throat at Iguazu

After paying the park entrance fee of 170 pesos each, and a short walk to the station, we started with a train ride through the park on a narrow gauge railway for a couple of kilometres.  Then we walked in to the Devil’s Throat falls, which are the largest on the many falls at Iguazu.

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San Martin Falls at Iguazu

Following this we went in to San Martin Falls, crossing over many other small falls along the way.  Athough there is less water going over this part of the falls than the Devil’s throat, it is the more spectacular view from the Argentine side of the river.

While waiting to walk in to San Martin Falls we saw many very colourful butterflies

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Heliconius Butterfly

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Butterfly at Iguazu

Following this we ate our lunch, then went on a boat trip up the rapids, and into the confuence ot the two major branches of the river.  We were given dry bags to put our clothes and shoes into, though my backpack would barely fit.  We’d taken our own dry bag for my camera. 

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Boat travelling to the base of the falls

After going to the confluence where we could take photos, we then headed directly in to the base of the falls.  The water was extremely rough, and we were thoroughly drenched.  After this we went back to the Devil’s Throat, and got even wetter.  I took a lot of pictures on my waterproof camera, but really have little idea of how good they will turn out, as my glasses were impossible to see from.  In fact we were hit so hard by water from above that I was sightly worried my glasses woud get knocked off.

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San Martin Falls at Iguazu

After this drenching we hiked back up to the top, and took some more pictures aong the way, before heading out of the park.

Supper tonight was cooked by the cook here in the hosteria.  We ate with a couple from France, and had a pleasant conversation with them about our different cultures.  The woman was not so confident of her English, it was about the same quality as our French, but the man understood us well and so we were able to talk about the trips we have done.

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Arrival in Iguazu, January 27, 2014

It is a long way and a very different climate from Ushuaia to Puerto Iguazu.  When we left this morning it was cool and windy, about 6C.  After about 6 hours of flying and several more waiting in the Buenos Aires airport we arrived here where it is 32C.

Our driver was waiting for us at the Iguazu airport, and after a few minutes turned off the highway and drove down a very rough dirt road. Soon we knew that he did not know where he was. He phoned our hotel, and was given directions, and started driving around again. We wondered what was happening, as we seemed to be in a residential area. The driver asked a man on the street, but that didn’t help. The next man was able to give him some guidance, but he still could not find the place. Finally he phoned again, and said “It’s right near here,” but still couldn’t find it. Finally we saw a woman waving at us (I’d seen her earlier as we drove by). By this time I wondered what kind of a scam the driver was pulling as there was no sign on the gate saying this was our hosteria. However, the woman did know who we were and that we were booked in by Say Hueque.. She was concerned that she was providing us the service we expected, and when we saw the room it was fine. It turns out that this is a very small place, with just three small cabins (though they are building two more).

The host was very accomodating because of our trouble getiing here, and went over in detail our itinerary. She also ordered us a pizza, and that was nice as there is no where to eat around here.

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A day on the Beagle Channel, January 26, 2014

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Ushuaia

I was awakened by bright sun in the window at 6:30, but when we opened the door to go for breakfast it was pouring rain. It rained heavily until it was time for us to catch our taxi to go to the port, so heavily that we wondered if the day would be worthwhile. But by the time we got into the cab and started downtown the rain was easing, and it had stopped when we got to the port.

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Ushuaia harbor

We tried to pay our port tax, but we gathered from the man at the desk that we first needed to get a ticket. Eventually we asked another man, who pointed us outside, and we found the ticket office for our tour. However, the clerk at this office told us that our tour would not start until 10, unlike the 9 am start we expected.

It wasn’t raining any longer, but we decided to go into the tourist information office across the street anyway, where they have free wi-fi. WIth that I was able to complete our flight booking for tomorrow, and we got our passports stamped with the Ushuaia stamp.

By the time our guide arrived there were only 7 of us waiting for our tour. We overheard another tour company saying that they weren’t going today, because it was too rough, though one of the passengers from that group was arguing that it really was because there weren’t enough people. So we were glad when our tour started. Almost all of tours on this trip have involved small groups, so they have been very good.

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Black cormorants


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Sea lion


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Sea lions


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Cormorant flying with kelp

We stopped at several islands to photograph the cormorants, other birds, sea lions, and the lighthouse. Since we were travelling with the wind it was not too rough, and the captain of the boat took us very close in to shore. You could get very good views of the animals, and very good whiffs of the odor as well!

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Lighthouse at the entrance to Ushuaia Bay

After rounding the lighthouse we were heading into the wind, and it became much rougher. We travelled to a large island where we disembarked for a short walk to see the archaeological site with a shell midden where the Yamana people used to live. We also climbed high up to the top of the hill where you could see in all directions around the Beagle Channel.

After this we headed back into Ushuaia. By now it was very rough with two metre swells on the water. We were not on a very large boat, so we bounced around a lot.

Fortunately it didn’t rain while we were on the water. However it did start to sprinkle when we got to town. We had lunch and then debated whether we’d go to a museum. We didn’t, but instead sat on the edge of the water for a bit looking at the boats in the harbor, before we got a taxi back to our hotel.

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Paddling to the End of the World, January 25, 2014

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Andes Mountains of Chile across the Beagle Channel

Our tour today started with a hike of 6.5 km aong the shores of the Beagle Channel.  First we had to stop at the park gates of Tierra de Fuego National Park to pay the 110 peso per person entrance fee. 

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Mountains of Chile across the Beagle Channel

We then hiked the Costera Trail which skirts the edge of the water.  For the first half of the trail there were many small little beaches which the trail crossed.  In between it was often a steep climb up and then back down through the native forest.

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White orchid

We saw many kinds of plants, heard many but didn’t see any songbirds, and lots of small white orchids.  We also saw two other kinds of orchids, one yellow and one green.

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Andes Mountains of Chile across the Beagle Channel

After the hike we stopped for lunch, provided by the tour company.  Antartur has a tent which they have set up semi-permanently in the park campground.  We began visiting with a very interesting couple from New York — two physicians, a husband and wife.  The wife was very interested in learning about  all the different places we’ve travelled.

After lunch we donned dry pants, rubber boots, and very cumbersome lifejackets for our paddling tour down the Lapataia River.  For us the paddling was too short.  We were in groups of 8 in rubber rafts.  The guides said it was paddling, not rafting, as we were doing no white water.  They divided us into two boats, and ours had all of the older people.  They put all the young people in the other boat, I assume thinking they were stronger paddlers.  Boy were they wrong!

Part way through the trip our guide said in Spanish, “Let’s beat them,” at which point Enid and I, in the bow of the boat, dug in and showed what you really need to do to paddle.  In about 100 metres we were 50 metres ahead of the other boat!

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Enid paddling on the Lapataia River

Needless to say, the guide was impressed, and said something like “you really do know how to paddle.”  Enid told the group that we have been paddling together for over 40 years.  After making one portage around a bridge that was too low to get under, and a small rapids, we paddled on to the end of the highway.  “The end of the world” it is the southernmost road on to which you can drive.  The sign indicated that it was 17, 848 km to the other end of the road in Alaska.

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