Fjord tour to Flam, June 11

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Waterfall along the fjord

It poured rain last night in a heavy thunderstorm.  I didn’t sleep well at all.  I initially went to sleep right away, but then woke up at midnight — which would be about 6 pm and suppertime in Saskatchewan — and I was so terribly hungry that I couldn’t relax and get back to sleep.  I think I finally did about 5 am.

After a good breakfast at the hotel we walked to the train station to pick up our tickets.  After that we walked to the Hanseatic League Museum.  It was nice and sunny when we started the walk, but it soon got cloudy and was sprinkling rain as we entered the museum.  By the time we finished the tour it was a real downpour.  Fortunately we had both raincoats on, and umbrellas.

The Hanseatic League Museum is pretty simple.  However, it does have a few displays of artifacts from the middle 1200 to 1300’s.  I thought the best of these artifacts was the stone seals that were carved for each of the towns from which the ships came.  It was very dark in the museum and hard to see.  The beds were very small little cupboards, maybe five feet long, so you can tell that the people were very small.

After this museum we also went to it’s companion building a couple of blocks away.  We had been in it at the very end of the day, but it was just closing yesterday, so we didn’t see much of it then.  This building is the living quarters.  The fires of the living areas were separated from the commercial buildings, because of the constant danger of wildfire in the cramped and closely touching wooden buildings of the period.

After that we walked back to the hotel, and checked out.  Fortunately it had now stopped raining, so we got our suitcases to the train station without getting everything soaked.  We ate our lunch at the station, then got on the train to Voss, which left exactly on schedule at 12:59. 

The train travels through many very long tunnels.  In fact, at least 1/3 of the trip must be underground.  The rest of the train ride skirts along the edge of the fjords as it stops along the way to pick up or disembark passengers.  At Voss we had a few minutes to catch our bus to Gudvangen.

However we couldn’t find any bus of the several that were there labelled for our destination.  I asked another driver and he pointed out the bus.  The driver had just opened up the storage doors, so I put our suitcases on the bus, and then asked the driver if it was the right bus to take.  He didn’t know!  Part of the problem was that our tickets are printed in reverse order for some reason, so the tickets said Gudvangen to Voss, instead of the other way around.  I went into the ticket office to check, and the clerk said that it was the right bus.  We left at 14:40 sharp.

However we were not at all sure that we were on the right bus, especially when it stopped very soon and picked up a bunch of school kids — which it then stopped all along the way and dropped off.  We were very concerned that we wouldn’t get to the boat on time, as the bus seemed to be travelling very slowly.  But we did arrive at the ferry dock exactly on the scheduled time and the five or six of us still left on the bus, tourists all, got off and were relieved that we had made it in time.

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Waterfall along the fjord

The ferry was very nearly empty, though it had just dropped a large number of tourists going the other way (from a cruise ship we assume).  We travelled down the beautiful fjord in a rather heavy rainstorm.  The clouds did break though, and we saw a rainbow low over the water.  The mountains are still snowcapped, and with the rain, and the snow melting, the rivers and hundreds of waterfalls were overflowing today.

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Rainbow on the fjord

Fortunately the rain stopped again before we disembarked at Flam.  There were three cruise ships in the harbour when we arrived, but they all left as we ate our supper (only to be joined by another that had been waiting for the dock to clear).  So there were at least four cruise ships, plus other cruise passengers from Bergen, in this very tiny town of Flam today.

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Arrival in Bergen, Norway, June 10

Bergen fish market

Bergen fish market

We left Edmonton last night almost half an hour late, since our plane was about that late arriving from Iceland.  As there are six time zones difference to Iceland, but it only a 6 hour flight we arrived at just about 7:00.  We were very surprised to find that we had to go through security to get off the plane.  It was a long, slow line and we were very worried that we might not make our next connection — though not nearly as worried as the man from Glasgow in front of us (not quite sure what his being disgusted about it was going to do to help him get on his connecting flight).

We did get through security in time to make our plane, in fact we had to stand in the gate lineup for almost 20 minutes — and we couldn’t find a washroom in sight anywhere!  It is just about a two hour flight from Iceland to Bergen, and fortunately both Enid and I were able to get about an hour’s sleep on this leg, so we probably had three hours sleep overnight total.

We got to Bergen, got some Norwegian money, and bought two sandwiches which we split between us.  I couldn’t seem to get the free wi-fi to work at the Bergen airport, and so I couldn’t get on to Google maps to find where our hotel was.  We walked out the front of the airport, and saw a downtown shuttle bus.  The lady helping load luggage told us to get off at the first stop downtown, which was the bus station.  We had no idea when we reached downtown, but a young woman behind us told us she thought we should get off soon.  We did realize as we reached it that we were at the bus terminal, so we got off the bus.

However, we had only a very vague idea where our hotel was located, and the street it is on was not on the map we had. A lady on the street saw that we looked lost, and asked if she could help.  She didn’t know where our hotel was exactly, but thought it was “up the hill” so we walked in that direction for about a kilometer.  We still couldn’t find the street.  We walked up one cross street, and finally saw a man (there weren’t a lot of people on the street).  We asked him, but he had no idea, though he thought one of the buildings on the corner was a hotel, so we shold as there.  It was a hotel, but not ours, and the door wasn’t open (you had to buzz in).  Fortunately the next young man we met did know that there was hotel up one more block from where we are, and thought it was “Steen’s Hotel”.  We climbed up a set of about ten steps and sure enough, there was our hotel to the right.

After we’d checked in we had a cup of coffee, and then walked back into old Bergen, stopping first at the Fish Market.  There are many open-air stalls selling fish, and other produce.  We tried some dry Reindeer Salami, and liked it so bought enough to have for sandwiches for lunch for the next couple of days.  There were some interesting looking fish plates and we decided we’d come back for our supper meal there.

We spent the next few hours walking around the waterfront in Old Bergen.  There are a number of old wooden shops there, most with tourist stores.  Some of the shops selling woolen knitted goods had some very nice mitts, and hats (too bad I bought a toque in El Calafate as these were nicer and about the same price).  We also passed the very old Rosencrantz Tower which is a 13th century fort, complete with tower and moat.  They were setting up outside it for a musical event (Bergen Fest) over the next week (I saw banners advertising Neil Young, and Tom Jones for two of the performers) so we weren’t able to get into all parts of the grounds, but saw much of it.

Finally we started back towards the market.  It had started to rain a bit, but we had one umbrella.  We had a plate of fish and vegetables, with potatoe salad and a bun that we shared, at a total cost of 260 Norwegian Kroner, about $45 Canadian.

It will be an early night for us.  I am practically falling asleep while writing this!

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A week in Prince Albert National Park

Loons in the morning on Sandy Lake

Loons in the morning on Sandy Lake

We left on May 27 and spent the next six nights at Sandy Lake, staying in our trailer.  During the day we either paddled, hiked, or biked.

On Wednesday, May 28 morning I awoke early and spent a couple of hours filming and photographing some of the birds — loons, grebes, and a small shorebird that I haven’t yet identified.  Later, after a really great breakfast, and I was very hungry, Enid and I paddled to the far side of Sandy Lake.  It was a bit hard to get through the reeds into the small lake, although the water is very high.  Perhaps it has silted up over the last year.  We saw some otter right in the very narrow channel.  They poked their heads high up above the water, and snorted their breath loudly while looking at us for a few seconds, then darting away.

On our first day we’d walked to McKenzie Creek.  The park has done a lot of maintenance on the Elk Creek trail, and at the creek they’ve taken out the bridge and put in a ford with large stones.  We walked to there again on Thursday, May 29, but once again didn’t cross it.  The water looked very cold.

Friday, May 30, we drove to the Spruce River and then paddled into Anglin Lake.  The river was extremely high.  Last year we had to pull over several large beaver dams.  This year there were no dams at all.  It took us 40 minutes to reach the lake, and an hour and 20 minutes to return.

On Saturday we paddled from Amiskowan Lake through the small creek into Sandy Lake, and then a couple of kilometers up Beartrap Creek.  Once again the water was very high.  We couldn’t find any place to get out and eat lunch, and since we had no real target area to reach we turned back and ate on the shore of Sandy Lake.

Enid fording icy Mckenzie Creek

Enid fording icy Mckenzie Creek

Sunday, June 1, we walked in along the Elk Trail.  When we got to McKenzie Creek we took off our boots, and waded through the water.  It was as cold as we’d expected!  The trail though is in good condition.  Unlike the other trails, and even the roads, which are tree littered from the windstorms that took place over last fall and winter, this trail is quite clear because of the maintenance that was undertaken.  The culverts have all been replaced, and in order to get the machinery in, they have pushed back the fallen trees along the edge of the trail.  There were only three large trees, which must have just fallen across the trail.

Alder catkins

Alder catkins

We stopped after about 8 km, again since we had no real target in mind, and ate our lunch at one of the fallen trees.  Before eating though we pushed the broken part of the trunk from the road.  We had just started our sandwiches when we heard a lot of noise.  It sounded like large animals running through the bush, and I anticipated seeing a herd of stampeding elk.  Instead it turned out to be two men on a horse-drawn covered wagon.  They were going in to Camp Lake to fish.  Since they’d forgotten to bring matches they asked if we had some, and so we were able to help them out.  The week before they said they’d come up the trail from the other way, with two other younger men, and it had taken them all day to cut out the trail with a chainsaw.

That night we were one of the only two campers left in the Sandy Lake campground.  A couple of large boats were out on the lake, but when they left it became very quiet.  I looked out our window of the trailer just before dusk, and there was a fox in our campground.  I pointed at it and told Enid, and when I did that it ran away and up the road.

Monday, June 2, was our last day.  We biked up the old highway, and just past the campground saw a fox.  I think I found where it’s den is up in the bank just off the road.  Once we got back from biking we packed up the trailer, ate our lunch and came into town for the afternoon.

 

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Our Last Night in Maui, May 11

Kapalua Beach, Molokai in background

Kapalua Beach, Molokai in background

Unfortunately good things must come to an end.  Though we are looking forward to going home, we’ve had a beautiful stay in a very nice place, and tonight will be the last.  We don’t leave Maui until late tomorrow, and fly overnight, so we will still have the better part of the day to enjoy tomorrow as well.

Crown of Thorns starfish

Crown of Thorns starfish

Today we once more snorkeled at Kapalua Bay.  It was rather windy, even by the early time we got there (we were one of the first vehicles in the parking lot) and so the visibility wasn’t as good, especially close to shore. However, out towards the mouth of the bay, though the surf was rough, it was better visibility.  We saw most of the same fish as usual, but did spot this Crown of Thorns starfish in about 5 metres of water.  The Crown of Thorns has very toxic spines (didn’t know that before I read about it tonight on Wikipedia) and is a predator of hard coral.  There is some concern that it’s population may be increasing, but this doesn’t appear to be certain.

We are mostly packed already, so tomorrow we will once more go to the beach and swim until at least noon.  Then after that we will have to head back towards the airport.

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A Polynesian Funeral and Whales, May 10

Funeral canoe, Beach at Kahana

Funeral canoe, Beach at Kahana

We had two unique experiences today: a funeral next door on the beach and our first sighting of humpback whales on Maui.

The funeral was held on the sand right beside our condo. We only watched the last part when they took out the ashes in a boat and an outrigger canoe.  People paddled  around in kayaks and canoes (they took out some of the older people and the mother in a motorboat)  and after circling for a while they went out to the edge of the reef and scattered the ashes and then threw flower petals on the ocean. The people who remained on shore waded into the water and threw flowers, leis, and petals into the waves. It was interesting to watch.  After the funeral the kids spent most of the afternoon playing and swimming in the water, or paddling around in the big canoe.  Enid says it’s the only time she’s ever seen the participants at a funeral wearing bikinis, as this is what most of the girls in the canoe were wearing.

Later this afternoon I heard someone down below us say “What’s that flipper?  Is it a whale?” and when I looked, sure enough there were humpback whales spouting and surfacing just off shore perhaps about a kilometer.  They didn’t stay long, but we saw them once more.  There must have been at least three or four of them.

 

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Ahihi-Kina’u Natural Area Reserve, May 9

Whitecheek Tang

Whitecheek Tang

We got up early this morning, and left for the south end of Maui at just about 7 am.  First though we used the hose to wash some of the dirt off our car.  It is still pretty dirty, and we’ll need to wash it before we return it.

The Ahihi-Kina’u Natural Area Reserve is the most recent lava flow on Maui (sometime in the 15- or 1600’s) and almost all of the area is closed to use.  Only a small portion at the north end of the reserve is open for snorkeling.  It is about a 400 m walk over rough  lava to the water, but the entry to snorkel is very good, a gently sloping black sand and gravel beach.

There were a few, though not a large number, of other snorkelers there this morning.  It was a very nice day to snorkel, not too windy, and the bay was quite calm.  It was also clear, and there were many, many fish.  Most of them were not new to us, but they are large and in a good abundance.

We did see some very large black fish.  We were not sure what they were, and we tried to describe them to the park volunteer (who was picking up garbage, and visiting with people on the beach and giving them advice — like where not to get out of the water!) .  He didn’t know for sure what they were.  I think that we have since identified them as Highfin Chub.

White mouth moray eel

White mouth moray eel

We snorkeled twice before lunch, and once after.  It is definitely the best snorkeling we’ve had here on Maui.  This afternoon we saw a large Whitemouth Moray Eel.  It was lodged in the coral, but didn’t move so I was able to film and photograph it.  Later on we saw it swimming, and I followed it for quite a long way.

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Olowalu Reef and Lahaina, May 8

Cruise ship in Lahaina harbour

Cruise ship in Lahaina harbour

In the morning we snorkeled for a good hour at the Mile 14 beach (Olawalu Reef).  We swam out a long way, to the edge of the reef where there was a tour boat (it left just as we got there, and a few kayakers).  The reef was good, and very calm, though in my impression it wasn’t as clear as the last time we were here.  As we were getting ready to leave two kayaks, and their guide, came to shore.  We waited to talk to the guide to see how much it was.  $75 for two hours on the water, when we swam almost as far seems a bit much!

In the afternoon we drove to the Lahaina waterfront and downtown, tourist, area.  It was very hard to find parking, but on our second loop down the main street we spotted a car that was just leaving, so we pulled in and got a spot.  There was a cruise ship in town, so it was very busy.  We went in to the Old Courthouse museum (free) and looked at the displays about the history of Lahaina, first as a royal Hawaiian settlement, and then later as a whaling town, and finally pineapple and sugar plantations before it’s current role as tourist trap.  We walked through several galleries.  The art was interesting, but very, very expensive, so there must be lots of wealthy people who come through here.

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A day in Kahana, May 7

We stayed at the condo today.   In the morning we snorkeled in front as it was very calm today. We saw a few though not a lot of fish.  Mostly we just read and relaxed, though we did go get a few groceries this afternoon.  It has been a very lovely warm day.

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Kahekili Beach Again, May 6

Two sea turtles

Two sea turtles

Schooling brown surgeonfish and yellow tang

Schooling brown surgeonfish and yellow tang

Another beautiful day at a very nice beach.  This beach is one of the nicest one for snorkeling close to our condo.  I went snorkeling three times, and Enid twice.  There is a long reef that parallels the shore.  In the morning we went swam along the beach for a long ways, and it was quite a bit harder to come back, as there was a current and wind pushing us to the north.

The only problem with this beach is getting into the water.  The sand rises very steeply, and the swell breaks hard on the shore.  It is easy to lose your footing especially when exiting the water, and get thrown by the waves into the sand.  It’s not really dangerous if you are strong enough, but it sure fills up your pants and shirt with sand in a hurry!

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Makena Five Caves, May 5

Makena 5 caves beach, Molokini in distance

Makena 5 caves beach, Molokini in distance

We arose early and drove south through Kehei and Makena to this very pretty spot just south of the Makena Surf Condo.  When we got there it looked as if the water was rather turbid, but a couple there snorkeling said it was one of the nicest spots.  There were many people there Scuba diving, but they said the snorkeling was good to the left side, and also on the right.

We took their word for it and went to the left side.  It was really poor.  The water was very cloudy, and there is almost no coral.  The small amount there was was being mauled by large swells breaking over the rocks, so that there was no way one could see anything.  So we swam all the way back to the other (right) side.  It was a bit clearer, and there is some nice coral, but the visibility was very poor.  As she quit, Enid spoke to a woman who was Scuba diving, and she said that it is usually a very nice place, that they had been here for a month, and this was the worst day of all.

I went out again after lunch, and it was perhaps a bit better, but still very poor viibility.  I saw three turtles.  One of them had a very large growth on the side of it’s mouth.  It was either the result of an old injury, or else it had some kind of a tumor.

Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve Lava flow and ocean, Molokini in the distance

Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve Lava flow and ocean, Molokini in the distance

When I quit snorkeling we drove south to the Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve.  Along the way we stopped at a very small church, where someone was playing a beautiful grand piano.  We realized later that this is where the classical music festival we’d read about was being held.  The road to the natural reserve is very narrow, and passes by some very large expensive houses.  This whole part of south Maui seems to be a very ritzy area.

We walked out to the ocean at the reserve.  This is the only area where you are allowed to snorkel any longer, as they have closed the rest of the reserve.  It is a beautiful site of black lava rock and deep turquoise ocean.  Perhaps we will come back here early some morning to try it.

Makena big beach

Makena big beach

On the way back we stopped at Makena Beach State Park.  This is a very long golden sand beach.  It has lifegaurd stations, but the beach itself was not very busy.  Today it was red-flagged, so there were very few people in the water.  The beach reminded us of some of the beaches in Australia, though there was much less surf.

Tonight we went for fish and chips at the brew-pub just about a quarter mile from here.  We’d gone last night, but it was Sunday, and we were a bit later, and it was full.  Rather than wait for at least half an hour to get it, we decided to come back tonight.  The fish was good.

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